Inquisitive Canine: Tips for Keeping ‘Ruff’ Housing From Getting Too Rough, Part I
Feb 4th
I recently adopted Tucker, my 4-month-old male border collie and lab mix, as a friend for my 3-year-old dog Polo, another male of the same mixed breed. Upon meeting Tucker I was taken over by his rambunctious behavior, but I figured he was a puppy and that this was something normal, and as time went on he’d begin to adapt to our family and his new brother Polo.
However, a few negative behaviors still remain. Tucker is constantly picking on Polo, which is at times a gesture to begin to play, which Polo accepts, but when he does not, Tucker does not understand that he needs to stop. I am afraid Tucker may injure Polo, as he bites his neck quite vi-iously, and sometimes, this playing will lead to a fight of barking, flying fur, and biting.
I feel as if they are two alphas under one roof, and while I want them to get along, I don’t want either of them getting hurt. Also, Tucker has a way of getting into anything and everything he can get his snout on, constantly jumping up on tables and eating things that are simply inedible by anyone.
I feel like I am at a loss, as me and my family have tried all sorts of ways to correct these repetitive and undesirable behaviors such as time-outs, pennies in a jar, a mechanism that makes click sounds, a low-deep “NO” command, and many other humane ways. He also gets very defensive and vicious when passing by other dogs during a walk.
I fear these things will never stop and he may no longer be able to be part of our family. This is very troubling as I’m sure you can imagine.
Are there any steps we could take to trying to correct this behavior? A friend whose dog is in-credibly well-behaved had mentioned doggy boot camp, can you recommend any that are in the Tri-state area as we live in Connecticut?
Thank you
Lauren Pascoa
Dear Lauren,
Congratulations on the adoption of your new pup Tucker! He sounds quite lively, and one entertaining bundle of energy! To answer your question, yes, there most certainly are steps you can take to resolve the issues you are having in order to reach your chosen goals!
The behavior scenarios you’ve described sound like normal tendencies of a highly spirited puppy. I do understand your frustration, and reasons for wanting to correct these unwanted behaviors. As a reward-based, certified professional dog trainer I suggest the best approach to reach your goals would be to replace these objectionable actions with those that you and your family members want. This way Tucker and all others involved will get their perspective needs met.
I have broken down your concerns into four separate areas:
- Puppy play and tips on socialization
- Jumping and scavenging or counter-surfing
- On-leash dog reactivity when on walks
- Assistance on locating local dog training services.
My sidekick Poncho and I are breaking this advice column into two parts. For this installment we will address the rough-housing (or “ruff” housing!), followed by Tucker’s propensity to counter-surf and rummage through the home. In the next edition, we will provide training tips for leash-walking and resources on how to find local assistance.
- Tucker and Polo’s dog-play session: Your young spirited puppy, who also happens to be a mix of higher-energy breeds, wants to play with his older brother, who has most likely mellowed with age. And although Polo is still on the younger side, he’s probably had enough play experience to know how much he’s willing to tolerate from a puppy. Also, if Polo was an “only child” for most of his life, he might need some time to adapt to having another dog in the house, as well as a younger tireless one.
- A few tips to help both dogs enjoy life with each other during play would be:
- Reward both dogs for any and all nice play behavior! Be a cheerleader for both Tucker and Polo when they are playing nicely – ‘happy talk’ from you (and other humans) along with an occasional treat will send a message of “Nice play time boys!”, then you’ll get more of it. You can also reward Tucker when he is “listening” to Polo’s requests for backing off.
- Monitor play: Dog play can appear to be quite intense at times (and often is). You’ll know it’s consensual if both dogs remain together and interact. Watch for reciprocal behavior be-tween the dogs. For more about interpreting proper dog socialization and play, visit my dog training blog.
- Puppy classes and socialization: Reward-based puppy training classes are key for helping younger dogs develop into well-mannered, well-socialized adult dogs. You’ll also want to consider setting up play-dates for Tucker with other puppies to help him develop good play skills. In fact, proper socialization for dogs is important at any age. But don’t take my word for it, check out what my own inquisitive canine Poncho has to say about dog socialization.
- Scavenging throughout the house: Hunting and foraging are normal behaviors of dogs. If given the opportunity he or she is likely to take it, especially with a younger pup. Dogs are quite keen at finding their own forms of entertainment, which makes it even more important for you to manage your environment, along with arranging specific outlets for Tucker to target his energy. Here’s one other dog that enjoys the sport of counter-surfing. My sidekick Poncho has provided some nice dog training tips to help with scavenging.
- A couple of other handy tips would be to provide motivational interactive dog friendly toys that Tucker likes. (Not ones you think he should like but ones that he actually likes to play with). Reward Tucker for playing with his own toys. Yes, I mean give him a little treat and a “Good boy!” for all of those times Tucker chooses to pick up his own toy. As a double reward, please acknowledge with praise and a treat for those times when he ignores the forbidden items that were left out.
Which brings me to one of the simplest solutions: if you don’t want Tucker getting into something, put it away. Management may not teach Tucker exactly what you want, but it certainly sets him up for success by preventing him from practicing behaviors you don’t want.
Puppy behaviors can be exhausting, but remember, Tucker will soon outgrow many of them, becoming the well-adjusted good-mannered adult dog you all want. With guidance in his play sessions, and providing alternate outlets for Tucker to help relieve all of his energy, I’m sure you’ll be reaching your dog training goals before you know it.
Remember to tune back in for the next installment of Dear Inquisitive Canine where we revisit the art of loose leash walking, and provide a few resources on where inquisitive dog guardians can find local dog training services.
Dog Training Tips for Help Transition from Crate to Own Bed
Dec 8th
Dear Inquisitive Canine,
Hellooo, my name is Hazel and I have a question. I am an 18-month-old crazy retriever mix – a little Chessie, Golden and Lab all rolled into one. I think I am pretty smart, and I am definitely cute. I have been crate trained, but want to move to a nice comfy bed without borders.
The problem is that my people aren’t sure I can be trusted not to chew things in the middle of the night, including wallets, cell phones, TV remotes and sunglasses. (And books because I LOVE paper). I’m also quite adept at standing on my hind legs and grabbing stuff off shelves and tables.
I have a dog friend in the house. She is 17 years old and has a special bed in the people’s room. Do you think I can be trained to sleep in my own bed, in the room with my people and leave my crate behind? Or maybe I could even have my bed in the boy’s room – my boy is 9 and he has lots of toys, but I would love to sleep in his room too. Can you or Poncho help?
Arf! Hazel
Dear Miss. Hazel,
Poncho the dog here. Thank you for taking the time to write in. You sound like one fun-loving energetic pup who has taken her retrieving skills to the limit! It also appears you are quite clever; first at figuring out what you want, then taking steps towards getting it. You’re quite the problem solver! If I ever hire an assistant I’ll contact you first.
I see that you have a couple of matters you’d like to deal with. First that you want to move out of your crate and into a bed which offers a little more freedom, while still being able to be with your humans. And secondly that sometimes having too much freedom can lead you into temptation.
After consulting with my mom, we decided I would go over the “moving into a grown-up bed” pointers since I learned the same thing when mom and dad brought me home. Being a certified professional dog trainer she also teaches these same strategies in her dog training classes.
There are a few ways your folks can help you transition to a ‘grown-up bed’ with ease. Have them read through these dog training tips, then choose the one that best suites your situation. Additionally, visit my dog training blog for an overview of the important do’s and don’ts for crate training your canine pal.
Additionally, you’ll want to remind your humans to do some dress rehearsals before everyone wants to go to sleep. You can practice with the following training exercises:
- Plan A – Your New Bed Plus a Leash: Have your folks choose a designated area (their room or the boys room) along with what you’re going to sleep on. Make sure it’s next to a large piece of heavy furniture such as their human bed or dresser. They’ll also want to keep you close to their bed so they can give you a treat for staying on your bed and being quiet. It’s important that they reward you to reinforce desired behaviors so you’re more likely to repeat them even when you’re not training.
- They can then use a comfy harness and leash, and tether you to the specific piece of furniture to help prevent you from wandering off. Keep in mind though, that it’s best to attach the leash to a harness and not a flat collar – helps prevent choking and other mishaps.
- Once you get the idea of sleeping in a different room and on your bed, they can remove the tether. If you decide to go wandering in the night, then they can hitch you back up.
- Plan B – From Crate-to-Bed: In case it’s too much of an abrupt transition, instead of the tether they can use your crate for management. Begin by sleeping in your crate but in the room of choice. Either your people’s room along with your sibling, or in the boy’s room. (Or both eventually). This way they can manage your environment to help prevent you from wandering while you get used to your new sleeping arrangements.
- Once they determine that you can sleep through the night, they can either leave the door to the crate open or go to Plan A – using the tether.
More often than not, us adult dogs are able to sleep through the night and understand that when it’s bedtime it’s bedtime. If you haven’t displayed behaviors that say otherwise, then this should be an easy transition. If you are the type of doggy that would enjoy playing all night long, then they’ll definitely want to use some of the above recommendations along with the following dog training tips:
- Reward you with petting, praise and even a treat whenever you’re lying on your bed minding your manners.
- Make sure you have gone potty and have had enough mental and physical enrichment during the day to help motivate you to want to sleep all night long and not go on an evening excursion.
- Keep bedroom doors closed, especially once you’re without the tether.
- Inform other family members they should make it quiet time when going to bed, and to refrain from playing so as not to get you all riled up. They can even read you a bedtime story, which is one of the various fun and effective activities recommended in the Out of the Box Dog Training Game.
As for the latter issue of rummaging throughout the house, we suggest you and your folks check out this Dear Inquisitive Canine post about a similar canine who enjoys counter-surfing and creating scavenger hunts. You’re sure to find some handy management and dog training tips that will help set you all up for success.
Segueing from a crate to a grown-up bed is a big step. But with management of your environment, teaching you what they want, and practicing beforehand, it is one that can go smoothly.
What to do When Dogs Jump on You: How to teach dogs to greet politely
Nov 13th
This Dog Discriminates, Now She Needs to Generalize
Dear Inquisitive Canine,
Our high-energy dog is about one year, and has learned quite well not to jump on us adults when we come home. She does however, continue to jump up on our 6 year old daughter.
It’s difficult for our daughter to ignore this, as we did, especially when the dog scratches her to get her attention. Is there another trick a child can use to stop a dog from jumping and clawing? It’s hard for our little girl not to squeal and run when she gets gouged with the claws.
Lulu’s mom
Dear Lulu’s mom,
Let’s go through what you’ve written, and determine what is known and what you have:
- A young, high-energy canine.
- An excited, happy-to-see-her-family canine.
- An animal that is genetically programmed to greet others (of any species) by jumping up.
- A young human child who inadvertently rewards the canine by squealing and behaving similarly to “prey”, or at least acts as excited and happy as the dog.
- An excited, exuberant, happy, young energetic dog that has learned to discriminate really well: She greets adult humans in a manner they like while approaching the little ones in a contrary fashion.
Now, allow me to identify what you would prefer:
- For your dog Lulu to greet young children politely, as she does adults.
I have to say, there are no “tricks” or anything else magical that would stop your dog from jumping and clawing, but there are some definite training steps you could take to achieve your goals.
- First and foremost: decide what you want from your dog. You say “stop jumping.” Okay, I know what you don’t want, but what is it you DO want? You’ll need to choose the behavior you want from your dog – this way, you’ll know what to reward her for. You need to give her the “right choice” to make.
I myself, as both a certified professional dog trainer and regular “dog mom,” I prefer to have dogs greet humans with either a “Sit to Greet,” or if the dog is really excited, “Four on the Floor” (all four paws need to be on the ground). Both are simple behaviors that are easy to teach dogs. You just need to decide on which one would work best. I would say teach both. This way, depending on Lulu’s state of mind, you can set her up for success. Four paws on the floor is easier and more realistic during those times when she is super-excited!
Now that you’re able to focus in on what you want from Lulu, what is the best plan? The following steps should help guide you:
- Have you, and any other adults do some “dress rehearsals” of sitting to greet (or four on the floor), when you come home. You enter the room, ask for the “right behavior,” reward with food, petting praise. Repeat this exercise enough times to where Lulu appears bored – or starts offering the behavior before you ask.
- Once Lulu is “getting it” with you, attach her to her leash (to help manage your environment), and practice having her sit-stay with your daughter along side of you. Make sure there is enough distance so Lulu can’t pummel her, but close enough to help mimic the end position of “coming home and greeting.”
- You and your daughter can repeat the “sit-stay” exercise in a few locations indoors. (Fewer distractions make it easier for Lulu). Each time, follow it up with yummy food treats and attention. Lulu learns: “My tushy on the floor makes the little human say “Hi” scratch my chin, and give me treats.”
Add in having your daughter enter the house/room while you continue to manage her on leash. Once your daughter enters, she can ask Lulu to sit for greeting and food rewards.
If Lulu decides she’d rather jump up to greet, you can give her a “Too bad,” and a “Time out!” Meaning, take her out of the room for about 20 seconds or so. This way, Lulu learns: “If I jump up, I get nothing! Plus, I get ignored and no attention whatsoever! Well that downright stinks! I think I’ll do more sitting. It’s a better outcome.”
Additional dog training tips would include:
- Continue to practice step number 4, while changing locations within your house – back door, front door – and at different times of the day.
- Recruit “volunteers”: ask if any of your daughter’s friends are willing (obtain parents permission first). They can help you by being the “greetee.” The more practice Lulu gets, the more she’ll be able to generalize amongst humans of all ages and sizes.
As a final note, it sounds like the adults have been consistent in teaching Lulu what is wanted, which is great – this proves that she is paying attention and can learn what is asked of her. Your daughter on the other hand, because of being young herself, hasn’t been able to refine her “ignoring” skills, or train Lulu to greet nicely. Because of the inconsistency, she has inadvertently made this undesired behavior stronger. So, when you’re not training or teaching, manage the situation by being around to help prevent Lulu from jumping up.
The more consistent and structured your training plan is now, the quicker Lulu will “get it”, which will result in polite greetings all around, long before your daughter heads off to college.
What to do About a Dog Who Digs Digging
Sep 3rd
This months Dear Inquisitive Canine dog behavior advice column is dedicated to a fellow inquisitive canine Harley. Seems that Harley is a fan of digging. Unfortunately his guardian’s aren’t appreciative of Harley’s abilities to re-landscape the yard. What a shame.
My mom the certified professional dog trainer has tackled our syndicated column, answering Harley’s guardian’s questions about what to do. I of course wanted to provide my own two cents – considering I am a dog who enjoys the occasional dig.
A few simple, easy-to-follow dog training and management tips would include:
- Reward Harley with a treat, praise, petting and/or a round of his favorite non-digging game whenever he is in the yard and leaving the dirt alone!
- Provide enrichment! Especially when Harley is left alone, to help prevent boredom related behaviors. Using interactive food toys, scavenger hunts and even creating his own digging pit can help direct Harley’s energy to specific allowable areas – he’ll be too busy digging through his own treasure chest or playing with his own games that he won’t care about digging in other areas.
- Review Harley’s exercise routine. If Harley is an active dog with lots of energy, you’ll want to up the amount of exercise he is getting to ensure he is more relaxed (and wants to nap) when left on his own. This includes other physical and mental activities besides walkies. Similar to humans tiring out after being at a computer all day, us dogs can get pooped out (no pun intended) after participating in a dog training class or dog training activity like Rallo-O. Even playing one of our Out of the Box Dog Training Game activity cards can set you both up for wanting to relax.
- Consider other options to being left outside: doggy daycare, pet sitters, dog walkers, getting together with a friend for doggy play-dates, or trading dog-sitting duties with other dog guardians.
- Re-evaluate Harley’s home environment: If he is more comfortable when indoors (as long as he minds his manners), consider creating a safe area of confinement inside your home. You can still use interactive toys to help keep him entertained.
- Use digging as a reward! Take Harley to an admissible area for digging, then use a phrase like “Go dig!” right before he does. If you put it on cue, you can then use the behavior of digging as a reward in areas he likes and that you won’t mind if it’s dug up. It also might come in handy if and when you need help preparing the soil in the garden.
For additional information on dog training tips for digging loving dogs, make sure you check out our Dear Inquisitive Canine dog behavior advice column, which can be seen in Noozhawk online news magazine.
Poncho Playing Archaeologist at Rincon
I wonder when mom and dad are taking me back to the beach? (That’s my favorite place to dig & roll) Hmm, something for this inquisitive canine to ponder…
Canine Nutrition Series: Food for thought on importance of exercising your dog
Aug 2nd
Welcome to our Canine Nutrition blog series where we introduce our first expert on some of the do’s an don’ts of your dogs nutrition. This week we are joined by Dr. Audrey Harvey BVSc(Hons). Check out her PoochTo5K website where you’ll see how passionate she is about preventative health care, obesity management and the importance of exercising your dog. Poncho and I would love to join her running group, but the commute down under would be quite the trek – beyond an ultra marathon to say the least.
Prevention, management and exercise: “It’s good for their body, and it’s good for their mind. It’s also great for your relationship with your dog.” She also has an interest in dog behavioral problems and how to manage them. For additional information on Dr. Harvey, please check out the following links:
The following is the canine nutrition Q&A session between Dr. Harvey and myself:
Q. Roughly how many Kcal’s may a dog have per day?
A. The amount of Kcal’s an adult dog needs to just maintain its body varies with body weight. For example, a 20lb dog would need 360Kcal/day to keep its body functions working. A 30lb dog would need 500Kcal/day.
- Let’s look at the calorie content of, for example, Eukanuba Adult Maintenance formula. It contains 404Kcal/cup. So, your 30lb dog really only needs a little over one cup a day to keep its body working. In reality, that figure refers to dogs who basically don’t do anything, and are on the equivalent of cage rest between meals, so that figure needs to be multiplied by up to two times to take into account the conditions you’ve mentioned in your next question.
Q. What factors into the amount allowed: Age, size, breed, activity level etc…
A. Obviously larger dogs need more energy for maintenance. Puppies need extra energy while they are growing, and because they only have a small stomach, commercial puppy food has more Kcal per cup than adult food. Again, using Eukanuba puppy as an example, it contains 417Kcal/cup, so these babies can get more Kcal in the same volume of food. Working dogs who are on the move all day need more energy. Interestingly, bitches who are at peak lactation need the most energy of any other dog, almost twice maintenance – milk production is really energy expensive.
Q. Is there a formula that dog guardians can use to help figure this out? Or should they speak with their vet?
A. The formula that’s most commonly used by vets is RER in Kcal = [BW^0.75]x70 where RER is resting energy requirements (cage rest between meals!) and body weight is in kg. From there, that figure gets multiplied by up to 1.8 to take into account any of the above factors. As a vet, if I wrote that on a piece of paper and gave it to a dog guardian and said, here’s how much you need to feed your dog, I’d not expect them to comply, it’s a bit confusing. Also, they may overestimate how much extra they need to give based on their dog’s activity level, age etc and feed too much.
I prefer to have a chat with a guardian and work out a rough guideline of how much to feed, then modify based on their dog’s condition over time.
Q. Should owners follow the guidelines on the bag/container of food, or is that unreliable?
A. In my experience with my own dogs over 20 years, I think the guidelines on bags of dog food are quite generous. I have never fed any of my dogs that much. I’d suggest that dog guardians start with the guidelines on the bag, and change it based on how their dog looks.
If they’re getting a bit curvy, cut back on the quantity. Every dog is different and these are only guidelines, so always look at your own dog’s body shape and response.
Q. Are the calculations the same for a dog running/walking a mile as it is for humans? For example, if you and I (humans) burn 100 calories per mile we run, would a dog burn the same walking/running? Is there even research on this?
A. Great question, and I haven’t been able to find anything out. I’d suspect it would be different, but I can’t back it up with science. The sled dogs that run the Iditarod eat a diet that’s up to 70% fat to fuel that activity level. Human ultramarathon runners do up to 100 miles – nowhere near the distance the dogs do but fuel that with fat and carbs. Dogs aren’t like people because they metabolise fat as their primary energy source, whereas we metabolise carbohydrates.
Q. Do you think that “free feeding” is an acceptable way to feed dogs?
A. Nope. I don’t like this for many reasons. Although it doesn’t happen with every single dog, I’ve seen a lot of dogs become overweight with this type of feeding. It’s also hard to know how much your dog is eating when all you need to do is fill up the bowl of kibble every other day, so you may miss any subtle loss of appetite that could indicate illness.
I personally prefer to work out how much to feed my dogs per day, and halve it. They are then fed twice daily, and I can see the food disappear. I know that they have a healthy appetite and that they are all getting their fair share.
Dinner time is also a great training time. I have four dogs and they all sit and wait until they are told they can eat. It teaches them to be obedient in the presence of a huge distraction – 3 other dogs and their bowl of tucker.
Q. Should dogs be on a specific feeding schedule? If so, all throughout his or her life? Or during certain periods only such as puppy/senior/lactating?
A. I personally feed my dogs twice a day, and if they get a Buster cube or any extras, that comes off their rations. Again I have no research to back it up, but I figure all the body systems work pretty much all the time, why should the gastrointestinal system do nothing for 23 hours then work its butt off for one hour… I also don’t subscribe to the theory that dogs are like wolves and should be fasted for a day or two every so often. I don’t think there’s any advantage to that at all, and it probably isn’t very nice for our dogs who have been domesticated for generations.
Q. I know the larger chested dogs are prone to bloat, but when is it better/worse to feed dogs related to exercise. Small amount say 1/2 hour before, then more afterwards or normal meal longer time before exercise? Or do dogs not have the same issues as we would?
A. Bloat is a huge problem for deep chested dogs. Exercise after eating or drinking is a high risk factor, so I’d skip food and excessive water intake before exercise. Avoid allowing a dog to gulp water after exercise, small frequent drinks are better, and wait an hour or so before feeding. That’s purely because it seems like an excitable dog is slightly at increased risk of bloat so if they are allowed to settle for a while after exercise, the risk may be reduced.
Also, if a dog is on twice daily meals, then it won’t be a big meal that’s scheduled for after exercise which also reduces the risk. Again, I can’t find any specific research but that’s what I do with my guys. I don’t have any giant breeds but my kelpie Guinness has a reasonably deep chest.
Q. For dogs that do not have food allergies, is it okay for s/he to have a variety of kibble/wet food brands and not just the same one all the time? Is it okay to vary the protein base? What are your thoughts about a varied (but healthy) diet?
A. I do the same as you [vary the kibble, healthy and lean table scraps in food toys). Three of my guys don’t have any allergies (thank goodness!) and they get beef, chicken, lamb kibble, table scraps and treats. Guinness the kelpie I suspect has some sort of inflammatory bowel disease (he gets the runs when I take him for a run <G>) so he’s being trialled on fish and tapioca kibble.
Q. Raw vs traditional vs home-cooked? Is one better? Why?
A. Many vets are unsettled with raw feeding because of the risk of infection with bacteria such as Salmonella. These can be shed in a dog’s feces and may cause illness in other animals, children and people with compromised immune systems. Also, the American Veterinary Dental Association and the FDA over there (USA) are advising people not to feed raw bones because of the risk of tooth fracture and more.
Home cooked is fine if the recipe is developed in conjunction with a veterinary nutritionist, and there are several sites on the web where vets can create a nutritionally balanced home cooked diet for a dog. Here is one example Pet Diets.
Making a good home-cooked diet isn’t necessary a simple option. Many people work out a home cooked recipe based on what they find perhaps in books or on the web, or on advice from breeders, and they may not be suitable for a dog’s specific needs.
For example, puppies need a specific balance of calcium and phosphorus for optimal bone growth and even if the calcium quantity is right, the wrong balance can cause problems. Excessive calcium may be associated with orthopedic conditions such as osteochondrosis dissecans (OCD), a disorder of cartilage development in the joints of the limbs. It’s a problem in growing dogs and may need surgery. There’s also some evidence that excessive calcium and rapid growth contributes (to OCD).
I have always fed my dogs a traditional high quality kibble, with training treats and occasional table scraps. They have enjoyed good health and really no illness and have lived into their teens.
Q. Speaking of “table scraps”, are they acceptable? If not, why? If so, what are the parameters? High quality, healthy such as low fat/lean meats, raw/steamed veggies and whole grains?
A. I don’t have a problem with table scraps, everything in moderation. No cooked bones ever, and nothing too fatty. We see a lot of cases of pancreatitis in dogs after Christmas because they have been fed a lot of fatty leftovers, particularly ham and pork. My dogs get lots of different types of scraps, including meat, veggies, and even toast crusts!
Q. I had been told awhile back that cow dairy (cheeses mostly) and fat is not good for dogs. Is this a standard rule of thumb?
A. I think everything in moderation. Dairy itself I don’t think is an issue, unless a dog can’t handle the lactose. If anything it’s fattening and that needs to be taken into account. Fat, eg from meat, may cause pancreatitis so I trim that off any scraps for my dogs.
Q. Dog foods: are some better than others? If so, what should dog guardians look for in finding good quality foods?
A. Some definitely better than others, and you get what you pay for. Cheaper food tends to contain a higher proportion of cereals, and cereal protein isn’t as good quality for dogs as meat protein. The ingredients listed on the dog food packet are listed in order of quantity. Good quality foods will have meat and meat by products listed as the top two or three ingredients in the ingredient list, so you know they have a better amount of meat protein than a food with cereals at the top of the list.
Q. I believe many people equate “by products” as being “bad” – are they? Aren’t dog foods broken down in such a way that dogs are able to digest them better since their digestive tract is so short?
A. By products I understand are things like offal, tendon etc..anything that’s not muscle meat. I don’t see them as necessarily bad, not sure of the nutritional value of a tendon, it’s just collagen. I guess that’s protein though, isn’t it? Dog foods are pretty thoroughly rendered, so they would be easier to digest than if a dog was just fed a chunk of tendon, I’d imagine.
Q. Supplements: Daily vitamins, minerals? Is this necessary if dog eats a healthy diet? When would they be required?
A. I personally have never used vitamins and minerals for my dogs, and I don’t recommend them for client’s dogs who are on a good diet.
>Q. Too many vitamins and supplements can affect kidneys and liver? A. Sure, too much Vit A isn’t good for example, but not sure how much of a vitamin supplement they’d need to take to get sick. One can look up references for the toxic dose of Vitamin A, and compare to the content of a well known vitamin supplement and work out how many pills are bad.
If they’re not on a good diet and may need supplements, I try and encourage them to change their diet rather than give them supplements. The only time I’d suggest a supplement is if there was a specific diagnosed deficiency, and that’s something to work on with their vet.
One supplement I have seen be very useful is a fatty acid supplement for dogs with dry skin or skin allergies. It can often ease inflammation and improve the condition of their skin and coat. If they want to try a fatty acid supplement, I don’t insist on a checkup but I tell them that on its own it may not have much effect, eg some dogs with allergies have secondary infections of the skin that really need antibiotics. I usually try and get them in for a checkup because they could well be wasting their money without a proper diagnosis.
Q. “Joint supplements” are becoming very popular and people are giving them to their dogs without consulting – is this a good choice?
A. I have no problems with joint supplements such as glucosamine, they can help, and they seem to be quite safe. If a dog is on any sort of medication, guardians need to let their vet know in case there is any interaction between the medication and the supplement but in most cases, there’s no problem with giving them a try.
Q. Best to confirm with Vet first before starting any medication? OTC, homeopathic or anything?
A. Absolutely. There can be interactions between drugs and alternative herbal treatments that can make a dog sick. Even a phone call to the vet to check is a good idea.
Q. Holistic medicine vs traditional? Both good? One better than another? Complementary?
A. If people prefer holistic medicine, that’s fine, as long as they don’t shun conventional medicine just for the sake of it. If a holistic medicine has been proven to be effective, that’s great. Herbal medicine fine (after all, lots of drugs are derived from herbs), physiotherapy fine.
Personally I don’t use homeopathy or reiki or such treatments on my dogs, but if a dog’s guardian wanted to use that for her companion, I’d help them find a suitably qualified colleague.
Again, everyone needs to be told what treatments of any type are being given because a herb may interact with a conventional drug, to the detriment of the dog.
Q. Interactive food toys: Good? Bad?
A. Awesome! Buster Cubes and the like are a great way of keeping boredom at bay, great for a dog’s mental health. Must make sure that whatever goes in the food toy is taken off a dog’s daily food ration, so they don’t take in too many calories.
Q. If owners wanted to feed meals out of the toys, can they be given spaced throughout the day instead of morning/evening only? A. Sure. I figure how your dog is fed has to fit your lifestyle too, and using toys when a dog is alone is a great idea.
Q. Are there some foods/supplements that can help prolong a dogs life?
A. None that are categorically proven to increase a dog’s life as such, but vit C and vit E are antioxidants, known to reduce cell damage. That helps. A lot of good dog foods now contain these vits.
Dogs may well be able to use human antioxidants, and it may be cheaper but ask vet to research dose and how effective they are in dogs.
The biggest thing a dog guardian can do to keep their dog around longer is to watch their weight. I was reading research recently that suggested that dogs who were lean lived up to 2 years longer than an obese animal.
Q. Allergies: seems that “food allergies” are commonly diagnosed but without actual testing. How is it best to determine a dog really has a food allergy? Actual testing? Or is a subjective diagnosis acceptable?
A. Allergy testing as such isn’t always accurate in the case of food allergies, often a food trial gives a better result. Dogs become allergic to foods they have been eating for some time, so the best way to diagnose a food allergy is to feed them something new.
Guardians need to choose a protein source their dog has never had before, and a carbohydrate source they’ve never had before, so they won’t be allergic to them. Alternatively, use a prescription hypoallergenic diet. The dog needs to eat this for 8 weeks, and nothing else must pass their lips! No treats, no table scraps, no pinching another dog’s food. This is so hard, and from what I’ve read, less than 20% of dog guardians follow through.
People don’t understand that they can’t give their dog anything else, and yes even a tiny treat can stuff up the food trial. This isn’t a balanced diet either, but for a healthy adult dog, it won’t hurt them to eat this for 8 weeks.
If the symptoms improve, then food obviously plays a big role in the problem. Guardians then add one single food source eg a new protein, for two weeks and watch for the return of symptoms. If they recur, that food is banned forever. If not, then it can go on a list of “safe” foods.
Over time, guardians develop a list of foods that won’t upset their dog, and a list of foods that are banned forever. This takes time and effort. I don’t really like to just stick to a subjective diagnosis, because a guardian might notice that beef makes their dog itch, but there may be other ingredients involved and things could be much better for the dog if the guardian went the whole hog and did the food trial.
Q. If they decided to obtain an actual allergy test, would they be able to forgo the food trial? Or the food trial is still the best way to go? A. It’s best to do a food trial with a suspected food allergy, it’s apparently more diagnostic with this particular allergy than allergy tests.
Q. Does feeding a dog a varied diet help prevent food allergies? A. I had a look in the vet only forum I read and there is apparently no real way to prevent food allergies, it’s more a genetic thing. So, the luck of the draw.
Q. Treats for training: Are there some that are better than others? Healthy vs “empty calories”? How can dog owners provide the same nutrition without adding extra calories if using foods to train their dogs? (Besides using the dogs kibble)
A. Obviously meat based, low fat treats are ideal but any treat has calories, so whatever a dog is given in treats, must come off their daily calorie allowance. Some people give their dogs small pieces of steamed carrot as a treat, no calories there, but some dogs may not like the vegetarian option.
I like to get some beef liver, slice it thinly and dry it in a slow oven, then cut into little cubes and use them as training treats. They’re nutritious and lean and the dogs love them. Liver isn’t something that should be a huge part of a dog’s diet but in small amounts for training it’s great. The one problem with liver is vitamin A, there’s a lot in it.
I did read about some trainers using sultanas (raisins) as treats. They can make dogs very sick, so that’s a no-no.
Q. Food that are “bad” and “poisonous” for dogs – there are lists all over the internet. How accurate and extreme are the items listed? Onions/garlic – what if they are cooked and in a sauce? Or is it raw only? Chocolate – pure baking chocolate more than milk, yes? But overall a no-no. Grapes? Just the skins or everything?
A. Garlic and onions are dangerous, but 15-30g of onions per kilo bodyweight is needed to poison your dog. That’s a lot! My dogs get leftover spaghetti bolognese or chilli con carne with some garlic and onion, and I’ve never seen a problem.
Dark chocolate more so than milk which is more toxic than white. Half of a 250g block of baking chocolate is enough to be dangerous to a 10kg dog. I prefer to keep my chocolate to myself, lol, but if people really want to give their dogs something, try carob.
I’ve read that 10g sultanas (raisins) per kg body weight can be enough to be deadly to a sensitive dog, and there’s no way of knowing if your dog is okay with grapes/sultanas until you feed them. My dogs don’t get grapes or sultanas! I think the thing is to be aware of the risks and make a sensible informed decision.
Q. When is it time for a dog owner to seek assistance from their vet?
A. Whenever they are concerned about anything to do with their dog’s physical and mental well being, and sooner rather than later. Lots of problems are easier to manage if they’re caught early in the piece, and sometimes it’s not a big job to get things back on track. Sometimes a bit of reassurance too is good for a dog guardian and can set their mind at rest.
To read our introductory post on Canine Nutrition, and to continue following the blog series on the do’s and don’ts of what to feed your dog, watch for our subsequent weekly posts. You can sign up to receive them via RSS feed or direct email on our inquisitive canine blog website.
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