Dog Behavior Quiz: Is Home Alone Stressful or Big Bore?

Now that the dog days of summer are winding down and we’re heading into the busy fall season, it seems that back-to-school means our dogs are left at home on their own with the responsibility of entertaining themselves. This sudden shift in routine – family around all the time to suddenly being gone all day – can sometimes lead to behavioral issues related to isolation.

Poncho and I developed this little quiz for you to take to help determine if your dog might be bored, be on the brink of isolation distress (a.k.a: separation anxiety), or just hunky dory about being on their own.

Q: As you’re going through your ritual to leave for work and/or school, your dog:

  1. Lies on his or her bed, watching you get ready, relaxed.
  2. Begins pacing around back and forth, clinging to you.

Q: You head out the door, closing the door behind you. Your dog:

  1. Stays behind, relaxed as if they’re saying “Have a nice day!”
  2. Whimpers, whines, and scratches at the door to go with you.

Q: You come home from being away for only a half hour or so. It appears your dog:

  1. Didn’t appear to care one way or another. He or she was happy when you got home, plus the food you left for them has been eaten up!
  2. Eliminated on the rug, chewed up the door and window frame, and left the bowl of food alone.

Q: You come home from being gone all day. It appears your dog:

  1. Didn’t appear to care one way or another. He or she was happy when you get home, plus the food you left for them has been eaten up!
  2. Eliminated on the rug, chewed up the door and window frame, and left the bowl of food alone, chewed up paws, and according to your neighbors barked and howled all day.
  3. Is excited to see you, as if running to say “Welcome home!” However, you notice that not only is the food in the bowl gone, but your dog went counter-surfing and dumpster diving in your kitchen, redecorated the living room by chewing up the couch and pillows, helped with laundry by dragging it all over the house and chewing up your new socks, and topped it off by re-landscaping the yard by digging up the flowers you just planted.

RESULTS:

If you’ve answered mostly 1′s in each question, then bravo to you! You’ve done a great job at teaching your dog to be independent and comfortable on his or her own! If you’ve answered mostly 2′s for each question then we recommend you consult with a certified professional dog trainer and/or vet behaviorist to discuss signs and symptoms related to canine isolation distress. There are medications and behavior modification plans that can be implemented to help with these issues.

If you’ve answered 3 to the last question, then consider your dog might be bored – scenarios such as this means your inquisitive canine is designing his or her own scavenger hunt! Providing enrichment is key to help prevent boredom related issues. Being passionate about this topic ourselves, we’ve blogged about it a lot! So click here to find out more about enrichment for dogs.

Keep in mind that our canine companions are social animals – they enjoy the company of others and often do not do well when left alone – unless you condition them to do so. Taking the time to teach them independence and coping skills are key in raising a healthy and happy dog! For help with these matters and more, feel free to contact us directly.

Painless DogTraining Tips to Help With Puppy Biting and Nipping

"Legal" Alternative for Chewing

I’ve been hearing a lot of this lately: “Ouch! My puppy’s teeth are like needles!” Yep – that’s what puppies do. Bite, chew, nip, shred and chomp some more. Their mouth is the perfect tool to explore the world and all that’s in it.

So what are new puppy owners supposed to do to help the situation? The following are a few simple steps those who may be experiencing this painful situation, in a pretty painless way.

  • Know your animal: Remember, dogs use their mouths to explore the world! This means, if it appears interesting, and it’s within reach, it will be investigated. Dogs also use their mouths (and teeth) to play with things, destroy things, and just for lots of fun! (Especially when he or she is teething).
  • Be aware of what you might be training: Attention, whether positive or negative, can cause a behavior to happen more often, so be careful of what you’re paying attention to – you may just be inadvertently rewarding a behavior you don’t want.
  • Provide “legal” outlets for your puppy or adult dog: Providing outlets for your dog to chew and play with will help redirect that energy to a more appropriate place. This way, he or she can get all of his or her energy out, while making the humans happy. Chew bones, playing tug with an actual tug toy, soft squeaky toys, and interactive food toys are just a few options for your pooch to get the attention he or she wants, in a way he or she wants, doing what he or she loves to do.
  • Provide play opportunities with other dogs: Most dogs enjoy playing with other dogs, but dog-play is a skill that needs to be practiced. Yes, dogs are born with instinctual play skills, but he or she still needs to practice. Set up doggy play-dates with age and play appropriate dogs so your dog can learn how to control his or her mouth with living objects, and not just toys and bones. For additional tips, check out this blog post on dog-play.
  • Make it clear your dog is making the better choice: To really help drive the message home, reward your dog with an extra special little treat whenever he or she makes the better choice of playing with these legitimate items, as well as for leaving forbidden items alone. This way, he or she figure out what works to his or her own advantage, while making you happy and proud.
  • Management Recommendations: Management means you’re arranging your puppy’s environment that prevents him or her from practicing behaviors you don’t want. If you haven’t taught your dog what you want, or if you don’t have the time or energy to monitor your dogs behavior, then you’ll want to keep him or her from making choices you don’t want them to make. This means, sequester your dog to an area with enrichment to keep his or her mind (and mouth) occupied. However, avoid giving a “Time Out!” by just sending him or her to a crate, yard or another room without anything to do. That would be too punishing. A bully stick or food enrichment toy in another area is certainly a fine option.

Remember, when developing your training and management plan for puppy nipping and chewing,  determine what you want from your dog, teach him or her what you want, provide appropriate outlets and reward heavily for making the better choice. This will make everyone happy, including your dog and everyone else in the household.

Dog Training Tips for Chewing Mouthing & Nipping

Dear Inquisitive Canine:

I recently purchased a Maltese/Pekingese mix. He is only 13 weeks old, but his biting habits are getting worse. No one can sit without him biting their feet or attacking their shoes. I have tried putting him in his crate after saying “no” to him. But nothing seems to deter him. Do you have any suggestions?

— Kathy

Dear Kathy:

Ah, yes, bees gotta sting, birds gotta fly and dogs gotta … mouth, chew and chomp! What a great question! Thank you for taking the essential steps in finding a solution for precluding those “Jaws” interactions with your puppy’s sharp, needle-like teeth. Isn’t it amazing how something that small can cause that much pain and discomfort?

I have a few suggestions to help you teach your dog how to use his mouth appropriately, including when, where and how. As a certified professional dog trainer, I like to first address why it’s important to provide dogs with appropriate outlets for chewing and mouthing. Then we will explore specific training exercises that are similar to the lessons I teach in my dog and puppy training classes.

Biting, chewing and mouthing are all normal behaviors for dogs, especially pu

ppies since they will be teething over the next few months. Dogs throughout their lives use their mouths for exploring their world and all that’s in it. (It’s similar to how us humans use our hands for everything.) Dogs also use their mouths for eating, play and passing the time away — chewing is just gosh-darn fun! In addition to play and activities, our beloved canines also use their mouths to indicate when he or she is stressed, or isn’t happy with something, someone or a specific situation.

Regarding training exercises and a management plan, I’ve divided the following information into sections that cover the above topics, including chewing, mouthing and biting:

  • When it comes to chewing, it’s vital to set your dog up for success. You can teach and reward the behaviors you want by doing the following: Provide acceptable and rewarding chew items that your dog enjoys, especially when you have company and might not have enough time to interact with your dog. Chew bones, interactive food toys and other dog friendly (and safe) toys should be available for your dog at all times.
  • Reward your dog for making the right choices. You’ll also want to place emphasis in teaching your dog that chewing on those allowable items is the right choice. This means that you’ll want to reward him with extra treats, petting and praise whenever he is chewing on those items — at least initially, until you observe him in action choosing his doggy items and ignoring forbidden articles. Once he’s doing that, you can acknowledge with good ol’ praise. However, I’d reward with a treat on occasion just to provide extra positive reinforcement. After all, it never hurts to say “Thank you!”

You’ll want to experiment with different chew items until you determine your dog’s favorites. Just because we think our dogs should like something doesn’t mean he or she will. Observe and go from there. Then you’ll know what to stock up on.

  • Mouthing and allowable interaction through play activities: Tug and fetch are fun games as well as great outlets for extra energy. To help create rewarding times together, make sure toys are large enough for both your hands and his mouth to be on. If it’s too small, he might end up mouthing your hand. Reward your dog for playing nicely with both continued play and attention from you, along with a treat now and again. This extra bonus really boosts the message that he is making the right choice.
  • A positive way to teach “bite inhibition”: As a trainer, I have one specific rule for tug should jaws misfire — teeth hit skin, game is over! Similar to “hitting below the belt” and being “timed out,” our dogs need to learn it’s uncool for his or her teeth to come into contact with our skin no matter how delicate hands are. If this should happen, you can certainly give a “time out” and stop playing. This type of penalty is one way for us to teach dogs “bite inhibition,” which is when he or she learns about controlling the intensity of his or her jaw pressure.

He will recognize, “Hmm, when my teeth hit her hand she just walked away. But as long as I kept my mouth away from her hand and on the toy, then we kept playing. I think I’ll do that from now on!” You’ll just want to make sure that these intermissions are only about 20 seconds. Afterward, you will want to resume play, ensuring you provide your dog the opportunity to make the right choice.

Another great way to provide your dog with activities in which he can use his mouth and learn about bite inhibition is through dog play. Puppy classes, puppy socials, puppy daycare and setting him up on “play dates” with other dogs of his size and temperament are ideal settings for him to learn how to use his mouth. Just make sure you are either there monitoring play, or that the instructors are maintaining a safe and friendly environment. For more on what to look for in dog play, click here to read a Dear Inquisitive Canine column on safe and friendly dog play behavior.

  • Determine if it’s play or if he or she is uncomfortable and/or unhappy: A dog that snaps or bites during times when he or she is not in a playful mood can often be sending a message that he or she is uncomfortable about something. It could be a health issue or something or someone in the environment that is causing your dog to feel apprehensive and nervous. If this is the case, you’ll want to investigate further, and even consider consulting with your veterinarian (for health-related issues) and a professional trainer such as myself for behavioral concerns.

As fun as it is for your dog to want to play with your feet, you’re not a human squeaky toy, so it’s great planning on your part that you want to take the time to teach him to make better choices.

With a little patience and understanding, taking the time to train your puppy to understand what you want combined with managing his environment when you’re not training, you’re sure to end up with a canine companion with the mouth that’s as soft and gentle as the rest of him.

— Dear Inquisitive Canine is written by Joan Mayer and her trusty sidekick, Poncho. Joan is a certified professional dog trainer and human-canine relationship coach. Poncho is a 10-pound mutt that knows a lot about canine and human behavior. Their column is known for its simple common-sense approach to dog training and behavior, as well as its entertaining insight into implementing proven techniques that reward both owner and dog. Joan is also the founder of The Inquisitive Canine, where her love-of-dog training approach highlights the importance of understanding canine behavior. If you or your dog have questions about behavior, training or life with each other, e-mail them directly.

Inquisitive Canine: Tips for Keeping ‘Ruff’ Housing From Getting Too Rough, Part II

In our recent Dear Inquisitive Canine column “Tips for Keeping ‘Ruff’ Housing From Getting Too Rough, Part I,” we addressed behavioral concerns from an Inquisitive Canine guardian regarding her 4-month-old puppy, Tucker, and her 3-year-old dog, Polo, both border collie Labrador mixes.
 

We shared our management and dog training tips for dog-play and counter-surfing. Inquisitive Canine reader Lauren Pascoa also had concerns about dog-dog on-leash reactivity. She wrote about Tucker: “He also gets very defensive and vicious when passing by other dogs during a walk.” We will be addressing this concern as well as providing resources to help this family find a local certified professional dog trainer such as myself to continue raising a healthy and happy dog. Dear Lauren:

We hope that you all have been having success since our last column, rewarding behaviors you like, managing your environment, and creating a harmonious environment between humans and canines. Behavior modification takes time, so having realistic expectations will help ensure you set yourselves up for success!

Now that you’ve had some time to work with Tucker at home, we’d like to help you move out into the world of loose-leash walking. We will also provide information to help you find local dog-training services. Local classes would be an ideal choice not only to help establish a baseline of good behaviors, but to maintain them over the years. Plus, it’s just something fun to do! It could be a good-manners course (aka “obedience”) or something more sporty such as canine agility.

When considering on-leash reactivity toward other dogs, keep in mind that leashes are “the ties that bind.” Imagine being an exuberant social puppy who wants to say hello to every other dog, person, cat, cyclist and leaf that passes by. Now imagine not being able to do so. Can you even begin to consider the amount of frustration that can build up? I equate leashes for dogs creating an emotional response similar for humans being stuck in a traffic jam — wanting to get to something you aren’t able to get to and that you have little or no control over. What does this mean for you? How do you help the situation you’re having? Simple. You’ll want to make leash-walking experiences fun for Tucker. A few training exercises would consist of:

  • Reward Tucker for walking next to you. I can never emphasize enough how important it is to express gratitude to any human and non-human animal when he or she is doing what you want — even when you didn’t ask. Often times, we ignore the nice behaviors and only pay attention when the bad ones pop up. Not only does this place focus on what we don’t want, it also results in inadvertently reinforcing these unwanted behavior. So again, reward what you want!

  • Redirect Tucker’s focus to something more enticing. You can enjoy playing the “Watch me” or “Find it” game. Looking at you gets rewarded, or using his canine scent skill to search for treats you’ve tossed on the ground. Plus, if these activities only happen when other dogs are around, he’ll start to associate other dogs with feelings of pleasure vs. irritation.

  • Change up the pace. If you are both medically cleared to do so, try altering the pace of your walk. When other dogs are around, you can pick up the pace and walk more quickly or even trot while maintaining a cheerful attitude.

  • Practice training exercises: Sit, down, stay, “Watch me,” shake, high-five, rollover and any other trick or behavior Tucker knows would all be good to practice when you’re out and about. These types of behavior training episodes not only help strengthen his skills, but they will keep his mind occupied on more productive activities, as opposed to barking and lunging toward other dogs.

For more information, check out these simple tips for leash walking Tucker on our dog training blog.

As for finding local dog training resources, there are many organizations that list dog training professionals. You can check out our Inquisitive Canine resources page for a few of these listings, along with links to their Web sites. You can also complete your own search, but we highly recommend you work with those who practice humane, reward-based training methods. Many of the dog training services might include classes and workshops, as well as private training. “Boot Camps” can be beneficial, but remember it will be up to you and other family members to maintain the behaviors once Tucker is living back at home.

Additionally, you can also look through our Dear Inquisitive Canine archived columns on Noozhawk, as well as training tips and resources on our Inquisitive Canine blog.

We commend you for reaching out and wanting to resolve these issues. Remember, as I state in my Top 10 Tips for Successful Training, it’s important to know your animal, have realistic expectations and reward what you want. With providing alternate outlets for Tucker to help relieve all of his energy, along with teaching and a side order of patience and understanding, I’m sure you, your family and Polo will be able to help Tucker and his playful personality conform to your lifestyle.

— Dear Inquisitive Canine is written by Joan Mayer and her trusty sidekick, Poncho. Joan is a certified professional dog trainer and human-canine relationship coach. Poncho is a 10-pound mutt that knows a lot about canine and human behavior. Their column is known for its simple common-sense approach to dog training and behavior, as well as its entertaining insight into implementing proven techniques that reward both owner and dog. Joan is also the founder of The Inquisitive Canine, where her love-of-dog training approach highlights the importance of understanding canine behavior. If you or your dog have questions about behavior, training or life with each other, e-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Size Doesn’t Matter in This Multi-Dog Household

Q: Dear Inquisitive Canine,

I have 2 dogs, a Dane and a Chihuahua. The Chihuahua intimidates the Dane. She won’t let him eat, play with toys, or do anything. I have to separate them or else he would live in a corner. She doesn’t bite or attack him. All it takes is a look or at most a growl. What can I do to restore my happy home?

My friend “Shirley” says the Dane is a wimp, but he’s fine with other dogs, and so is the Chihua-hua. Help!

Thanks from the war zone

A: Dear War Zone,

Ah yes, “sibling rivalry.” It’s a shame when family members don’t get along. Humans have been known to have arguments now and again, and from my experience as a certified professional dog trainer I can tell you that our pet dogs are really no different.

From what you’ve described, it sounds like the Dane is being quite the “gentleman.” He is listen-ing to his sister, reading all of her doggy body language and vocal communication, and doing what any smart dog would do – not challenge her. It’s safer for him to back off, than to treat her like a squeaky toy and get in huge trouble. You, and your friend “Shirley” can be thankful that he is a good listener.

As for your Chihuahua, she has certainly developed some undesired coping skills, at least by human standards. She may have at one time been unhappy about something and expressed her-self using normal doggy communication (hard stare and growls). Her discontent may have gone unnoticed or ignored – by the Dane and/or by you. If this is true, and she was completely ignored, then she will have gotten louder (or more assertive and intimidating) with each episode, until someone paid attention!

Other possible “triggers” could be “resources” and/or the Dane himself. Resource guarding is a strongly hard-wired (DNA) behavior, and can rear its ugly head at any time. For your Chihuahua, the resources could be food, a food bowl, toys, attention from you, or anything else she considers “valuable”. What started out as a “normal” reaction to wanting to guard things, turned ugly be-cause once again she was either ignored, or she got “in trouble”! Maybe yelled at? Sent to her room? “Grounded”? Banished to the dungeon?

If this is true, and the attention she is receiving is more of “getting in trouble”, then she may have also started to associate the Dane with feelings of anxiety and frustration every time he is around, and in turn, lets these feelings be known right from the get-go.

Then there’s the human component: their communication starts (growls, hard stares), you tense up because you don’t like this type of behavior – maybe using a not so cheerful voice – which predicts nothing good for her, resulting in chaos and unhappiness all around.

No matter the cause, the approach is the same: create an environment where both dogs love being around each other. How do you achieve this? Simple. Pair each dog with something the other dog loves, then they’ll start to love that dog. Take it slow and steady – baby steps if you will. When you’re not training, manage your environment to help prevent both dogs from practicing objectionable behaviors.

  • Training:
    • The goal is to change your dogs’ perspective of how they see each other using classi-cal conditioning techniques. Pretty “fancy” for dog training. But it’s simple and it works! Right now it sounds like the mere sight of one another brings on feelings of dread. You want to re-verse that, right? This is the plan:
      • The Chihuahua gets steak (or other high value yummies) and attention (happy talk from you) whenever the Dane is around. She’s ignored and gets nothing when he isn’t there.
      • She gets lots of rewards whenever she is behaving nicely towards the Dane.
      • If she behaves in a negative way, she doesn’t get yelled at. You can confine her to her own room, but again while providing enrichment (food toys, chewies etc…).
      • Her only “punishment” is that she doesn’t get the high value food and attention from the rest of the family. Think of it as sending a child to their room with snacks and a video game, not “grounding” them.
    • The Dane gets lots of yummy steak (or other high value reward) whenever the Chihuahua is around. Pair her with something he loves, and he will love her…eventually. But it takes time, patience, and consistency.
  • Management: remove all objects the Chihuahua likes to “guard” (or gets bossy over). Keep them apart from each other if necessary, but if you’re confining them to separate areas, provide enrichment so it’s not so much of a punishment. Include chewies, interactive food toys, etc. Also, make sure they’re tired from exercise so they’ll want to nap.

Most importantly, reward desired behaviors. Catch your dogs in the act of doing what you want, then reward them for it. Even being in the same room, and ignoring each other can be re-warded. It’ll flow over into “creating pleasant associations.” Both dogs will begin to associate the other dog being around with good things for themselves. You’ll know it’s working when they look at each other, then look at you for their reward. What a nice, simple, and quiet way to create a “no war” zone.

Dear Inquisitive Canine is written by certified professional dog trainer Joan Mayer and her trusty sidekick Poncho the dog. Joan is the founder of the Inquisitive Canine and developer of the Out of the Box Dog Training Game, If you or your dog have questions about behavior, training or life with each other, please email them directly.