Dog Training Tips for Chewing Mouthing & Nipping
Apr 1st
Dear Inquisitive Canine:
I recently purchased a Maltese/Pekingese mix. He is only 13 weeks old, but his biting habits are getting worse. No one can sit without him biting their feet or attacking their shoes. I have tried putting him in his crate after saying “no” to him. But nothing seems to deter him. Do you have any suggestions?
— Kathy
Ah, yes, bees gotta sting, birds gotta fly and dogs gotta … mouth, chew and chomp! What a great question! Thank you for taking the essential steps in finding a solution for precluding those “Jaws” interactions with your puppy’s sharp, needle-like teeth. Isn’t it amazing how something that small can cause that much pain and discomfort?
I have a few suggestions to help you teach your dog how to use his mouth appropriately, including when, where and how. As a certified professional dog trainer, I like to first address why it’s important to provide dogs with appropriate outlets for chewing and mouthing. Then we will explore specific training exercises that are similar to the lessons I teach in my dog and puppy training classes.
Biting, chewing and mouthing are all normal behaviors for dogs, especially pu
ppies since they will be teething over the next few months. Dogs throughout their lives use their mouths for exploring their world and all that’s in it. (It’s similar to how us humans use our hands for everything.) Dogs also use their mouths for eating, play and passing the time away — chewing is just gosh-darn fun! In addition to play and activities, our beloved canines also use their mouths to indicate when he or she is stressed, or isn’t happy with something, someone or a specific situation.
Regarding training exercises and a management plan, I’ve divided the following information into sections that cover the above topics, including chewing, mouthing and biting:
- When it comes to chewing, it’s vital to set your dog up for success. You can teach and reward the behaviors you want by doing the following: Provide acceptable and rewarding chew items that your dog enjoys, especially when you have company and might not have enough time to interact with your dog. Chew bones, interactive food toys and other dog friendly (and safe) toys should be available for your dog at all times.
- Reward your dog for making the right choices. You’ll also want to place emphasis in teaching your dog that chewing on those allowable items is the right choice. This means that you’ll want to reward him with extra treats, petting and praise whenever he is chewing on those items — at least initially, until you observe him in action choosing his doggy items and ignoring forbidden articles. Once he’s doing that, you can acknowledge with good ol’ praise. However, I’d reward with a treat on occasion just to provide extra positive reinforcement. After all, it never hurts to say “Thank you!”
You’ll want to experiment with different chew items until you determine your dog’s favorites. Just because we think our dogs should like something doesn’t mean he or she will. Observe and go from there. Then you’ll know what to stock up on.
- Mouthing and allowable interaction through play activities: Tug and fetch are fun games as well as great outlets for extra energy. To help create rewarding times together, make sure toys are large enough for both your hands and his mouth to be on. If it’s too small, he might end up mouthing your hand. Reward your dog for playing nicely with both continued play and attention from you, along with a treat now and again. This extra bonus really boosts the message that he is making the right choice.
- A positive way to teach “bite inhibition”: As a trainer, I have one specific rule for tug should jaws misfire — teeth hit skin, game is over! Similar to “hitting below the belt” and being “timed out,” our dogs need to learn it’s uncool for his or her teeth to come into contact with our skin no matter how delicate hands are. If this should happen, you can certainly give a “time out” and stop playing. This type of penalty is one way for us to teach dogs “bite inhibition,” which is when he or she learns about controlling the intensity of his or her jaw pressure.
He will recognize, “Hmm, when my teeth hit her hand she just walked away. But as long as I kept my mouth away from her hand and on the toy, then we kept playing. I think I’ll do that from now on!” You’ll just want to make sure that these intermissions are only about 20 seconds. Afterward, you will want to resume play, ensuring you provide your dog the opportunity to make the right choice.
Another great way to provide your dog with activities in which he can use his mouth and learn about bite inhibition is through dog play. Puppy classes, puppy socials, puppy daycare and setting him up on “play dates” with other dogs of his size and temperament are ideal settings for him to learn how to use his mouth. Just make sure you are either there monitoring play, or that the instructors are maintaining a safe and friendly environment. For more on what to look for in dog play, click here to read a Dear Inquisitive Canine column on safe and friendly dog play behavior.
- Determine if it’s play or if he or she is uncomfortable and/or unhappy: A dog that snaps or bites during times when he or she is not in a playful mood can often be sending a message that he or she is uncomfortable about something. It could be a health issue or something or someone in the environment that is causing your dog to feel apprehensive and nervous. If this is the case, you’ll want to investigate further, and even consider consulting with your veterinarian (for health-related issues) and a professional trainer such as myself for behavioral concerns.
As fun as it is for your dog to want to play with your feet, you’re not a human squeaky toy, so it’s great planning on your part that you want to take the time to teach him to make better choices.
With a little patience and understanding, taking the time to train your puppy to understand what you want combined with managing his environment when you’re not training, you’re sure to end up with a canine companion with the mouth that’s as soft and gentle as the rest of him.

— Dear Inquisitive Canine is written by Joan Mayer and her trusty sidekick, Poncho. Joan is a certified professional dog trainer and human-canine relationship coach. Poncho is a 10-pound mutt that knows a lot about canine and human behavior. Their column is known for its simple common-sense approach to dog training and behavior, as well as its entertaining insight into implementing proven techniques that reward both owner and dog. Joan is also the founder of The Inquisitive Canine, where her love-of-dog training approach highlights the importance of understanding canine behavior. If you or your dog have questions about behavior, training or life with each other, e-mail them directly.
Inquisitive Canine: Tips for Keeping ‘Ruff’ Housing From Getting Too Rough, Part I
Feb 4th
I recently adopted Tucker, my 4-month-old male border collie and lab mix, as a friend for my 3-year-old dog Polo, another male of the same mixed breed. Upon meeting Tucker I was taken over by his rambunctious behavior, but I figured he was a puppy and that this was something normal, and as time went on he’d begin to adapt to our family and his new brother Polo.
However, a few negative behaviors still remain. Tucker is constantly picking on Polo, which is at times a gesture to begin to play, which Polo accepts, but when he does not, Tucker does not understand that he needs to stop. I am afraid Tucker may injure Polo, as he bites his neck quite vi-iously, and sometimes, this playing will lead to a fight of barking, flying fur, and biting.
I feel as if they are two alphas under one roof, and while I want them to get along, I don’t want either of them getting hurt. Also, Tucker has a way of getting into anything and everything he can get his snout on, constantly jumping up on tables and eating things that are simply inedible by anyone.
I feel like I am at a loss, as me and my family have tried all sorts of ways to correct these repetitive and undesirable behaviors such as time-outs, pennies in a jar, a mechanism that makes click sounds, a low-deep “NO” command, and many other humane ways. He also gets very defensive and vicious when passing by other dogs during a walk.
I fear these things will never stop and he may no longer be able to be part of our family. This is very troubling as I’m sure you can imagine.
Are there any steps we could take to trying to correct this behavior? A friend whose dog is in-credibly well-behaved had mentioned doggy boot camp, can you recommend any that are in the Tri-state area as we live in Connecticut?
Thank you
Lauren Pascoa
Dear Lauren,
Congratulations on the adoption of your new pup Tucker! He sounds quite lively, and one entertaining bundle of energy! To answer your question, yes, there most certainly are steps you can take to resolve the issues you are having in order to reach your chosen goals!
The behavior scenarios you’ve described sound like normal tendencies of a highly spirited puppy. I do understand your frustration, and reasons for wanting to correct these unwanted behaviors. As a reward-based, certified professional dog trainer I suggest the best approach to reach your goals would be to replace these objectionable actions with those that you and your family members want. This way Tucker and all others involved will get their perspective needs met.
I have broken down your concerns into four separate areas:
- Puppy play and tips on socialization
- Jumping and scavenging or counter-surfing
- On-leash dog reactivity when on walks
- Assistance on locating local dog training services.
My sidekick Poncho and I are breaking this advice column into two parts. For this installment we will address the rough-housing (or “ruff” housing!), followed by Tucker’s propensity to counter-surf and rummage through the home. In the next edition, we will provide training tips for leash-walking and resources on how to find local assistance.
- Tucker and Polo’s dog-play session: Your young spirited puppy, who also happens to be a mix of higher-energy breeds, wants to play with his older brother, who has most likely mellowed with age. And although Polo is still on the younger side, he’s probably had enough play experience to know how much he’s willing to tolerate from a puppy. Also, if Polo was an “only child” for most of his life, he might need some time to adapt to having another dog in the house, as well as a younger tireless one.
- A few tips to help both dogs enjoy life with each other during play would be:
- Reward both dogs for any and all nice play behavior! Be a cheerleader for both Tucker and Polo when they are playing nicely – ‘happy talk’ from you (and other humans) along with an occasional treat will send a message of “Nice play time boys!”, then you’ll get more of it. You can also reward Tucker when he is “listening” to Polo’s requests for backing off.
- Monitor play: Dog play can appear to be quite intense at times (and often is). You’ll know it’s consensual if both dogs remain together and interact. Watch for reciprocal behavior be-tween the dogs. For more about interpreting proper dog socialization and play, visit my dog training blog.
- Puppy classes and socialization: Reward-based puppy training classes are key for helping younger dogs develop into well-mannered, well-socialized adult dogs. You’ll also want to consider setting up play-dates for Tucker with other puppies to help him develop good play skills. In fact, proper socialization for dogs is important at any age. But don’t take my word for it, check out what my own inquisitive canine Poncho has to say about dog socialization.
- Scavenging throughout the house: Hunting and foraging are normal behaviors of dogs. If given the opportunity he or she is likely to take it, especially with a younger pup. Dogs are quite keen at finding their own forms of entertainment, which makes it even more important for you to manage your environment, along with arranging specific outlets for Tucker to target his energy. Here’s one other dog that enjoys the sport of counter-surfing. My sidekick Poncho has provided some nice dog training tips to help with scavenging.
- A couple of other handy tips would be to provide motivational interactive dog friendly toys that Tucker likes. (Not ones you think he should like but ones that he actually likes to play with). Reward Tucker for playing with his own toys. Yes, I mean give him a little treat and a “Good boy!” for all of those times Tucker chooses to pick up his own toy. As a double reward, please acknowledge with praise and a treat for those times when he ignores the forbidden items that were left out.
Which brings me to one of the simplest solutions: if you don’t want Tucker getting into something, put it away. Management may not teach Tucker exactly what you want, but it certainly sets him up for success by preventing him from practicing behaviors you don’t want.
Puppy behaviors can be exhausting, but remember, Tucker will soon outgrow many of them, becoming the well-adjusted good-mannered adult dog you all want. With guidance in his play sessions, and providing alternate outlets for Tucker to help relieve all of his energy, I’m sure you’ll be reaching your dog training goals before you know it.
Remember to tune back in for the next installment of Dear Inquisitive Canine where we revisit the art of loose leash walking, and provide a few resources on where inquisitive dog guardians can find local dog training services.
Responsible Dog Owner Takes Dog’s Food to Whole New Level of Quality
Oct 19th
My inquisitive canine Poncho and I recently received an email from an inquisitive dog guardian who has taken her dogs meals to a who new level of yum! I myself would enjoy having a meal at her home – I’m sure her dog loves every morsel. She was wondering if the meals she was cooking for her dog were adequate for her diet.
Since her question had to do with nutritional requirements, as opposed to the general topic of enrichment for behavioral concerns, I thought it’d be best to direct her to her dog’s veterinarian – after all, providing medical or nutritional advice would be operating out of my scope of practice. I am a certified professional dog trainer, not a vet.
I was so impressed by her recipe that I wanted to share it with our inquisitive canine audience – It might inspire others to think outside the box of additional ways to provide meals for our dogs. Not to say that dog specific foods are inferior – on the contrary, many are absolutely fine. But, there are choices and it’s nice to have options available. And as I mentioned (as well as the vet nutrition specialists I queried) in my inquisitive canine blog posts on canine nutrition, we’re no longer limited to feeding our domestic dogs the same kibble every day for every meal.
This is our conversation, we hope you enjoy and are inspired! Who knows, maybe someday I can have a cooking program devoted to enrichment and the art of stuffing Kong’s!
Dear Inquisitive Canine:
I have a question about making homemade dog food. I have been making my Jack Russell terrier’s food for a few months now, but am concerned that she is getting everything she needs nutritionally. Here is my recipe:
Two cups brown/white rice
7 good sized boneless chicken breasts
1 medium zucchini (fresh from my garden)
2 small cloves garlic (I’ve read onion and garlic are not good for dogs but that garlic helps with fleas..)
4 eggs – freshly laid by my chickens!
2 cups carrots
1/2 apple
4 TBLS Olive oil
I then pressure cook all of this for 20 min. – then I add 4-5 TBLS brewer’s yeast, about 4 TBSP powdered calcium, and 4TBSP flaxseed oil.
I then put it into 1/2 cup portions and freeze it. I give her a 1/2 cup in the morning and 1/2 cup in the evening. This makes enough for two weeks of food. She LOVES it and seems more fit than when she was getting regular dog food. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for? Thank you!
~ Christa
Hi Christa!
Wow, this sounds delicious! If you’re dog doesn’t want it I’ll take it!
I appreciate the time and effort you’ve taken to contribute to your dog’s well-being and good health. As for giving nutrition advice directly, in all honesty I consider it out of my scope of practice – To determine nutritional needs for your dog you’d really want to discuss this with your vet. An honest vet will give you sound advice without promoting products they sell.
I had recently queried canine nutrition experts and posted a complete blog series on this topic (I too am inquisitive and cautious about my dogs health). This is a direct link to the introduction blog post on canine nutrition. There are a total of six posts – five of which are Q&A with nutrition experts. Please feel free to share and comment.
Lastly, as far as the fresh eggs you get a special thumbs up!!! Not sure where you live, but I’d buy some from you
Also, I LOVE LOVE LOVE that you prep, split and freeze portions – my one suggestion might be to freeze these lovely meals in food toys – something like a Kong would be great – this way it’ll keep your dog busy and tap into those predatory skills
Thanks again for writing in Christa!
Joan
Hi Joan -
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, by all means use my letter in a blog post. It is a topic that needs more attention.
I really like your idea of putting the food in a kong as I leave my Jack Russell for about 6 hours each day to work. She is very well behaved, but would certainly enjoy a treat like that to occupy herself.
I looked at the blog posts on nutrition – thank you. I am taking my dog to the vet soon for her rabies shot and checkup, so I’ll ask about the homemade dog food.
Thanks again – I always enjoy your columns!
~ Christa
What to do About a Dog Who Digs Digging
Sep 3rd
This months Dear Inquisitive Canine dog behavior advice column is dedicated to a fellow inquisitive canine Harley. Seems that Harley is a fan of digging. Unfortunately his guardian’s aren’t appreciative of Harley’s abilities to re-landscape the yard. What a shame.
My mom the certified professional dog trainer has tackled our syndicated column, answering Harley’s guardian’s questions about what to do. I of course wanted to provide my own two cents – considering I am a dog who enjoys the occasional dig.
A few simple, easy-to-follow dog training and management tips would include:
- Reward Harley with a treat, praise, petting and/or a round of his favorite non-digging game whenever he is in the yard and leaving the dirt alone!
- Provide enrichment! Especially when Harley is left alone, to help prevent boredom related behaviors. Using interactive food toys, scavenger hunts and even creating his own digging pit can help direct Harley’s energy to specific allowable areas – he’ll be too busy digging through his own treasure chest or playing with his own games that he won’t care about digging in other areas.
- Review Harley’s exercise routine. If Harley is an active dog with lots of energy, you’ll want to up the amount of exercise he is getting to ensure he is more relaxed (and wants to nap) when left on his own. This includes other physical and mental activities besides walkies. Similar to humans tiring out after being at a computer all day, us dogs can get pooped out (no pun intended) after participating in a dog training class or dog training activity like Rallo-O. Even playing one of our Out of the Box Dog Training Game activity cards can set you both up for wanting to relax.
- Consider other options to being left outside: doggy daycare, pet sitters, dog walkers, getting together with a friend for doggy play-dates, or trading dog-sitting duties with other dog guardians.
- Re-evaluate Harley’s home environment: If he is more comfortable when indoors (as long as he minds his manners), consider creating a safe area of confinement inside your home. You can still use interactive toys to help keep him entertained.
- Use digging as a reward! Take Harley to an admissible area for digging, then use a phrase like “Go dig!” right before he does. If you put it on cue, you can then use the behavior of digging as a reward in areas he likes and that you won’t mind if it’s dug up. It also might come in handy if and when you need help preparing the soil in the garden.
For additional information on dog training tips for digging loving dogs, make sure you check out our Dear Inquisitive Canine dog behavior advice column, which can be seen in Noozhawk online news magazine.
I wonder when mom and dad are taking me back to the beach? (That’s my favorite place to dig & roll) Hmm, something for this inquisitive canine to ponder…
Canine Nutrition Series: Own Life Experiences Leading to Integrative Approach to Veterinary Practice
Aug 30th
Welcome to the fifth installment of our featured experts on the Canine Nutrition blog series. For the final week in our thread, we are joined by So Cal’s local Dr. Patrick Mahaney VMD, CVA, owner and founder of California Pet Animal and Wellness (CPAW), Inc. Dr. Mahaney enjoys spending time treating animals with both complementary and traditional veterinary medicine, helping people and writing. He says, “As there are so many unusual experiences in my profession, I have plenty of material about which to write!”
You can find many of his articles on his blog: Patrick Mahaney Blog as well as the column he writes for the Los Angeles Pet Examiner. Incidentally, like me, Dr. Mahaney has a blogging dog named Cardiff. “Cardiff is my muse, my companion, and the true motivating force for my veterinary practice.” Cardiff’s Blog can also be found on Dr. Mahaney’s website.
Having an appreciation for animals and science since childhood, Dr. Mahaney was drawn to the field of Veterinary medicine. However, it was his own personal experiences of multiple back injuries that prompted him to expand his own knowledge and services for helping his clients. “I discovered that the integrative approach greatly augments the wellness of my animal patients.”
To read more about Dr. Patrick Mahaney and the veterinary consulting services he offers, please check out his personal website as well as his veterinary practice website. We appreciate all the wonderful information he has contributed to our Canine Nutrition blog series, and are pleased to be able to share his expertise with our inquisitive canine audience.
The following is the canine nutrition Q&A session between Dr. Mahaney and myself:
Q. Roughly how many Kcal’s may a dog have per day?
A. There is a calculation for Resting Energy Requirement (RER, in kCal)= [BW^0.75]x70 BW= body weight in KG
Q. What factors into the amount allowed: Age, size, breed, activity level etc…
A. In general, younger and more active dogs need higher calories. Older and less active (including those that are debilitated) dogs need fewer calories.
Q. Is there a formula that dog guardians can use to help figure this out? Or should they speak with their vet?
A. It is really best that owners speak to their veterinarian to establish a guideline for weight maintenance or weight loss.
Q. Should owners follow the guidelines on the bag/container of food, or is that unreliable?
A. Yes, owners should follow the guidelines, but consider that extra calories are frequently consumed through people foods, dog treats, or consuming other pet foods (occasionally unbeknownst to the owner). Therefore, always feed on the lower end of the food bag’s recommendation.
Q. Do you think that “free feeding” is an acceptable way to feed dogs?
A. I prefer feeding specific feedings on a 2-3 times basis. Some dogs are able to control their food consumption and maintain their own weight. Others overeat their food and put on weight unnecessarily, which leads to a myriad of health conditions.
Q. Should dogs be on a specific feeding schedule? If so, all throughout his or her life? Or during certain periods only? (puppy/senior/lactating)
A. It is best for a dog’s digestive health and body condition to be fed in multiple, calorie and food substance appropriate meals per day throughout their lives.
Q. For dogs that do not have food allergies, is it okay for s/he to have a variety of kibble/wet food brands and not just the same one all the time? Is it okay to vary the protein base?
A. Consistency with food that enters a dog’s mouth typically leads to regularity in digestion and bowel movement production. I do not recommend varying a dog’s food on a day to day basis. Every couple of months, gradually changing the protein source may reduce the likelihood of developing dietary sensitivity to a protein source (as compared to long term feeding of a single protein source).
Q. Raw vs traditional vs home-cooked? Is one better? Why?
A. There is not a really “better” formula. Feeding has to be done in a means that is appropriate for a particular patient based on their current state of health.
From a standpoint of food safety and potential for illness secondary to bacterial contamination, cooked foods are safer than raw. Raw food is not exclusive to feeding raw meat, we have to consider raw vegetables and grains too. Appropriately cooked meats, grains, and vegetables tend to be easier to digest than raw foods.
Q. Are “table scraps” acceptable? If not, why? If so, what are the parameters? High quality, healthy such as low fat/lean meats, raw/steamed veggies and whole grains?
A. I am fine with the addition of table foods to commercially available pet foods, as long as they are low in fat and high in fiber, moisture, and beneficial nutrients. For example, vegetables such as carrots are great additions as “table scraps” to almost any feeding regimen.
Q. Dog foods: are some better than others? If so, what should dog guardians look for in finding good quality foods?
A. Look at the pet food label. If the food contains “meals”, “by-products”, sugar, artificial colors, artificial or “natural flavors”, or preservatives (such as sodium nitrite) then it should be avoided. Additionally, whole meats, vegetables, and grains should be at the top of the list of food ingredients.
Q. Supplements: Daily vitamins, minerals? Is this necessary if dog eats a healthy diet? When would they be required?
A. I recommend feeding a whole food diet which is rich in natural vitamins and minerals so that there is less of a need to provide supplements. Activity, illness, surgery, and age related changes can induce nutritional deficiencies that may benefit from supplementation under the guidance of a veterinary professional.
Q. “Joint supplements” are becoming very popular and people are giving them to their dogs without consulting – is this a good choice?
A. It is always best for a pet owner to consult with a veterinarian before administering dietary supplements, such as Glucosamine/Chondroitin joint supplements, which typically require long term administration. Always choose an oral joint supplement that has been manufactured to meet your dog’s needs (as compared to a human joint supplement that may not be absorbed as well from the canine gastrointestinal tract).
Q. Holistic medicine vs traditional? Both good? One better than another? Complementary?
A. Really, all medicine should be holistic. Holistic means that you are focusing on the entire organism, not just an individual part or organ system. Western (conventional) and complementary (Eastern, etc) can work quite well together when done by an experienced veterinary medical practitioner.
Q. Interactive food toys: Good? Bad?
A. Interactive food toys, such as treat filled Kong toys, pressed beef hide, or others can be used with success by a responsible pet owner with a dog that does not have body weight or digestive issues.
Q. Are there some foods/supplements that can help prolong a dogs life?
A. Addition of whole food, nutrient rich, whole foods, such as steamed vegetables, can provide beneficial moisture, fiber, and antioxidants that can prolong a dog’s life.
Omega 3 fatty acids, such as fish or flax seed oil, also safely provide benefits to multiple body systems with low likelihood of side effects.
Q. Allergies: seems that “food allergies” are commonly diagnosed but without actual testing. How is it best to determine a dog really has a food allergy? Actual testing? Or is a subjective diagnosis acceptable?
A. It is best to determine if a protein or carbohydrate is tolerated by a dog by doing a food elimination trial for a minimum of 6-8 weeks. The food elimination trial does not permit feeding of protein or carbohydrate sources that your dog has previously consumed. It is vital to be vigilant and strict in the process to potentially see a positive result.
Q. Treats for training: Are there some that are better than others? Healthy vs “empty calories”?
A. Training treats should be very interesting to your dogs nose and taste buds to motivate performance of your requested command. Additionally, treat size should be as small as possible, as the number given is typically in the double digits. Training treats should be free of sugar, preservatives, and artificial colors and flavors.
Q. How can dog owners provide valuable nutrition without adding extra calories if using foods to train their dogs? (Besides using the dogs kibble)
A. Dog owners can feed small portions of low sodium deli turkey, cheese, dried liver, or other real foods as training treats.
Q. When is it time for a dog owner to seek assistance from their vet?
A. Dog owners should seek assistance from their veterinarian anytime their dog is not following their normal patterns of eating, drinking, sleeping, or playing. Additionally, a dog should have a physical exam performed by a veterinarian at least every 12 months.
If you are just joining us and would like to start from the beginning of this series, please click on this introductory post on Canine Nutrition link to find out the reasons behind why I wanted to delve into the area of nutrition for dogs. You will also be directed to additional links in this series for Q&A with experts in canine nutrition. If you haven’t signed up to receive our dog behavior blog post, you can via RSS feed or direct email on our inquisitive canine blog website.








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